What Is pH Level and Why Does It Matter in Hair Color?
The pH scale measures how acidic or alkaline a substance is, ranging from 0 (very acidic) to 14 (very alkaline), with 7 being neutral. Hair’s natural pH is slightly acidic - around 4.5 to 5.5 - which helps keep the cuticle closed, smooth, and healthy.
- Alkaline Color Products (between pH 7-9): Swells the hair fiber to open the cuticle layer allowing color molecules to penetrate deeply into the hair fiber, is able to provide visible lift of the natural level and delivers more robust, full-bodied, and long-lasting color.
- Acidic Color Products (between pH 5.5-6.9): Will swell the hair fiber less than alkaline products, just enough to allow hair color molecules to penetrate the cuticle layer and develop closer to the surface of the hair, not depositing as deeply. Color results will be shiny, more sheer and will be less lasting.
Alkaline hair color creates the ideal environment for deep color deposition.
Understanding Alkaline Hair Color and its Unique Properties
Traditional permanent alkaline colors often contain ammonia, which acts as an alkalizing agent to raise pH and facilitate the color process.
Redken’s Shades ALK takes alkaline hair color technology to the next level by providing a liquid-cream demi-permanent hair color with an alkaline pH all without ammonia, fragrances, silicones, mineral oil, parabens, added phthalates, preservations, drying alcohols or DMDM hydantoin. This multi-patented, innovative formula delivers stunning color performance while prioritizing the replenishment of the 4 signs of healthy, youthful-looking hair: color, shine, hydration, and restored vitality with movement and bounce.
Benefits of Using Alkaline Hair Color
Using alkaline hair color like Redken Shades ALK offers several advantages for stylists and clients alike.
- Vibrant, Long-Lasting Color: The alkaline pH opens the cuticle, with 100% oxidative dyes that penetrate deeply into the hair fiber for full-bodied color that remains vibrant for up to 8 weeks.
- Gray Coverage: Achieves up to 75% gray coverage with natural-looking results.
- Hair Health: Thanks to its Hydro-Magnetic Complex, formulated with humectants, emollients, and a tripeptide, attracts and binds to the hair fiber instantly replenishing the 4 signs of healthy, youthful-looking hair: color, shine, hydration, and restored vitality with movement and bounce.
- Innovative Formula: Free of ingredients like ammonia, drying alcohols, and silicones, reducing irritation and dryness. There are 46% less ingredients in Shades ALK than our traditional cream permanent color (Color Fusion). What ingredients are NOT found in Shades ALK that can often be found in other alkaline demi formulas?
- US Only: Shades ALK features key ingredients for targeted performance only. There is no ammonia, no fragrance, no silicones, no mineral oil, no SLS, no SLES, no drying alcohol.
- EU/UK: Shades ALK features key ingredients for targeted performance only. There is no ammonia for a pleasant smell, no fragrance, no silicones for a natural feel, no alcohol*. *no ethanol
- Versatility: Suitable for a wide range of hair types and hues, making it an excellent choice for multiple salon applications.
- Supports Creative Techniques: The alkaline base enhances color deposit for bold, dimensional, and fashion-forward looks.
If you want longer-lasting color that still cares for your hair, demi permanent is your best bet.
Why Use Shades ALK?
Shades ALK harnesses alkaline pH benefits for vibrant color while incorporating advanced science to visibly reverse damage in just one use:
- Advanced Technology: Formulated with a 14% Hydro-Magnetic Complex, it leaves hair visibly healthier, shinier, and more hydrated in just one single service.
- High Gray Coverage and Vibrancy: Shades ALK offers up to 75% gray coverage and up to 1 level of lift. It provides up to 8 weeks of vibrant, true-to-tone results.
- Key Ingredients Only: Simplified and optimized for targeted performance, Shades ALK has been formulated with humectants and emollients, formulated without ammonia, fragrance or silicones. formula simplified and optimized for targeted performance*
- Versatile Palette: The product range includes a 100% intermixable, 50+ shade color palette designed for diverse application techniques and client needs.
Tips for Stylists Using Alkaline Hair Color
To optimize your results with alkaline hair color products such as Shades ALK, keep these key best practices in mind:
- Perform Allergy Testing: Always perform a skin allergy test before each use of hair color, as allergies can develop suddenly -- even if your client has previously used a hair color from Redken or another brand.
- Perform Strand Testing: Hair color may be readily accepted by porous hair that has been chemically treated or damaged from environmental exposure or heat styling. Always conduct a preliminary strand test to determine how the hair will take color. Apply the formula to a small section of the hair and process according to instructions.
- Use Correct Formulation Ratios: Follow guidelines for mixing to achieve optimal color deposition and longevity. For Shades ALK, mix at a 1:1.5 ratio exclusively with recommended Redken Pro-Oxide Cream Developer 10 volume (3% maximum).
- Apply Evenly and Process Fully: Proper application technique is vital for uniform color results and to avoid patchiness or uneven coverage. Additionally, be sure to process for 20 minutes at room temperature.
- Educate Your Clients: Share the benefits of using home care such as Acidic Color Gloss that will retain & deposit shine, maintain vibrancy across glosses, toners, & permanent color between salon visits.
Pro Tip: Shades ALK should process on dry hair for the full 20 minutes at room temperature to ensure full oxidation of the dyes. For hair that is porous (Zones 2-3), we recommend the following options:
- Diluting your formula in ½ with equal parts Shades ALK Crystal Clear (1 part Shades ALK shade: 1 part Shades ALK Crystal Clear)
- Lightening your formula by mixing with a lighter and/or warmer shade.
Alkaline hair color plays a vital role in professional color services, offering deeper color penetration and enhanced longevity. Redken’s Shades ALK is an innovative, high-performance formula, combining alkaline efficacy with a hair-friendly formulation that supports your artistic vision and commitment to hair health.
By understanding and applying the principles of alkaline hair color and pH science, you can elevate your coloring services, to create beautiful, vibrant results your clients will love.
