Sam's Styling Secrets: How To Create Volume On Any Client
As a hairdresser, it is important to understand that product is not an option it’s a necessity — especially when it comes to volume. “Behind the chair the question I always received was ‘I can never get my hair to look the way you get it to look,’” says Redken Global Artistic Ambassador Sam Villa. “My response was always, “Are you working with the product I recommended? A product is not an option but a necessity to get the finished result.”
While the haircut may be the foundation for any look, styling technique — including the products — are the true means to creating organic finishes. According to Sam, successful finishing depends totally on a salon professional’s ability to continually analyze their work at each stage of the finishing process and keeping an open mind as their work progresses. Most importantly, he says, it’s crucial to keep a disciplined vision, because what separates a “good” hairdresser from a “great” is their visual perceptive skills.
To help you hone your styling skills, and teach your clients to do the same at home, here are Sam’s eight favorite products for creating volume on any hair type. And remember: Communication builds wealth, so help your clients get what they want and you will get what you want. They’ll keep coming back to your chair time and time again.
1. For Fine Hair - High Rise Volume Lifting Conditioner
Most fine haired guests forego conditioners if they can, as they believe a myth that conditioners will weigh their hair down. But Redken’s High Rise conditioner will actually give fine, flat hair a boost! It delivers lift and full-looking locks before the client even gets out of the shower.
2. For Natural Curls- Beach Envy Wave Aid
More and more clients want to go au natural and celebrate their curls, but as we hairdressers know, “natural” does not really mean natural. They still need product – a necessity, not a luxury. To get the “natural” look, scrunch wave aid on damp hair and break out the diffuser (one with fingers on the inside). Turn the dryer on medium heat, and have the guest tilt their head over for the hair to fall with gravity. Rotate the diffuser in circular motions through sections of the hair. Rotating the diffuser will enhance the curl pattern. Follow with your cool shot to lock it all in and NEVER touch the hair while drying – let the diffuser work for you!
3. For Extra Lift- High Rise Duo Volumizer
This product gives lift without crunch or weight, giving hair a real kick of volume. Apply a pea size to nickel amount, (depending on density) from root to ends, and blow dry with a nozzle and round brush for long lasting, foundational volume. If the curls are top-heavy, you can combat them by applying the product to the base of the hair strand and blow drying on medium heat using your fingers and a diffuser. If you’re looking for more volume on the top and crown, take diagonal-back sections rather than horizontal sections — the X pattern will guarantee maximum volume.
4. For Short Hair- Rough Paste 12
Think you can’t achieve volume on short hair? Think again! To maximize product application at the base of any style, try this cool trick: Emulsify Rough Paste 12 in the palms, and using your fingertips massage it into the hair near the scalp — The concept is the palms become the reservoir and the fingertips become the applicator. This is ideal for short hairstyles when volume is required with a separated texture, and it’s important to place the product where you want the volume.
5. For Bobs- Full Frame 07
Full Frame is perfect for adding a weightless, brush-able finish to blow-dried hair, and helps add soft volume to bobs. Apply Full Frame 07 to the root area on each section of towel-dried hair. Using an off base-placement, brush the back and sides with a round thermal brush. This will give your client a sleek, modern look.
6. For Clients Who Are Nervous to Try Product- Guts 10
Product application is key, and most often it’s misapplication that makes a client dislike a product. For example, many fine haired clients may shy away from product because they have been applying it incorrectly — to the surface of the hair, which makes the hair go flat. The easiest way to give the client the volume they’re looking for is to focus the product in the area you want the hair to be most responsive. Divide the hair shaft into 3 areas: base, mid-shaft and ends. If you want volume at the base, apply GUTS 10 at the base only. Think about the end result when applying product for maximum product results.
7. For Tousled Volume- Wax Blast 10
Looking for a little extra oomph? Add Wax Blast! This works when finishing short, medium or layered long hair, as the wax delivers in the form of a light spray. You don’t even have to use your fingers — just aim and spray! If you aren’t working with this best-selling spray wax, start right now for unbeatable texture and a tousled matte finish.
8. For Natural Looking Volume- Rewind 06
For an organic look on fine longer locks, emulsify the product in your palms and distribute it through damp hair. Diffuse the hair with your hands or with a diffuser until you like the feel and find a texture you can work with. Get creative by twisting individual sections back away from the face on both sides, and continue to the back. Combine the twists together at the back with pins. You can also use Rewind 06 on short hair, just apply to damp hair where you want it and rework it into the desired shape later with your hands and a diffuser.
