The Shades EQ Difference: Why Acidic Demi-Permanent Color Is A Must-Have

As any professional colorist knows, there is more to haircolor than picking a shade! The concept of acidity and alkalinity is essential when it comes to haircolor and hair strength. Here, Redken Artist George Garcia explains why acidic haircolor specifically is so important.
Why Is Acidic Haircolor Important?

First and foremost, it’s important to know that hair is at its healthiest when it has a pH of 4.5-5.5, notes Garcia. Lightening the hair puts it in an alkaline state, with a pH of 10 or 11. “This abrades the cuticle, strips the melanin, and breaks down the disulfide bonds that give hair its backbone and structure,” he says. Sure, you could attempt to chemically address that damage after the fact, but following a lightening service with an acidic demi-permanent color or toner helps to keep the hair in great condition from the beginning.
What Are The Benefits Of Acidic Haircolor?

Using acidic demi-permanent haircolor after lightening is best, because it offers gentle processing for outstanding condition and shine.
“Acidic color gently brings the hair back to a neutral pH, and also helps the cuticle lay smoothly again,” Garcia explains. Not only is that helpful in and of itself, but it also makes a big difference when talking about another major culprit that causes hair damage: brushing. “After any kind of lifting service—be that highlights, balayage, or a single-process, hair is going to be in its most fragile state,”. If the cuticle remains roughed-up, a brush or comb can continue to snag and rip through the hair, only causing more damage. Acidic haircolor helps to keep that cuticle smooth, upping the combability factor and protecting the hair in yet another way. Not to mention that a smooth and closed cuticle makes for incredible light reflection and shine, as well as allows you to build more body into the hair.